Weathering goes after the basic painting, so what you will have to do (except for assembling the model!) Here are my three basic Liquitex colors, and the brush I use for most of this. Weathering Powder Dark Rust Humbrol Weathering Powders are a versatile means of adding realistic weathering effects to your mode.. £5.49 This is an effect visible in some prototype photos. He was 83. Without a proto pic as a reference your weathering will never be as good as it could be. The route card board on the car door has already received a small paper square as a route card. Thanks for the information. On the prototype, these were often stapled or tacked to the edge of the wood running board, which is why tank cars usually did not have route card boards as such, until the advent of metal running boards. Pigment is now applied, mixed from the gray, umber and black as desired. As an illustrative example, here is a private owner car with a medium amount of weathering. The Vallejo Pigments, a selection of natural earth and synthetic pigments, have been chosen for their permanence, their excellent light fastness, and for the extra fine milling of their particles, which facilitates the mixtures and their application on models and dioramas. Of course, not every car is severely dirty. Realistic Weathering on Military Models: Brian O'Donoghue gives us a step by step way to realistic weathering on wheeled vehicles. I should mention that models to be weathered must have a flat finish with this method. So even though the car on the right is 16 years older than the car on the left, its paint scheme is actually newer, and thus a little less dirty, than is the auto car at left. Here is another view of that being done, again prior to final weathering, when streaks like these will be somewhat muted. I mention this because  it affects the rate at which water evaporates off the model surface you are working on. I received an interesting challenge in an email a few months ago, and the idea has been rattling around in the back of my mind ever since. Here, I’ll show you how to weather and age using only three paints. Around door latches, there are often dirty streaks or patches, and if the door rollers or door track have been greased, there can be dark brown or black stains in those areas. This video explains why I'm always using oil paints, not acrylics, for the weathering process. I try to achieve some of the same dirt streaking on the tank, and dirt over the walkways, as is seen on prototype cars, that is illustrated in the detail shot below. All are based on prototype photos, and are part of the effort to reproduce what is seen there. First is a War Emergency twin hopper. You are making an artistic statement in addition to adding your unique stamp of ownership. This concludes my summary description of the methods, both basic and detailed, that I use to weather rolling stock with acrylic washes. There is also some brownish dirt on the car, but it is not very heavy, as this car was built in 1951 and I am modeling 1953. This Atlas tank car model, lettered for Warren Petroleum, would be a pretty new car on my 1953 layout and thus is only weathered a bit. ABTEILUNG 502 modelling oil color 20ml - Faded Navy Blue Abt030 Better to work up to the desired level of dirt from the lighter end of the scale. This is quite rough on brushes, so don’t use your best for this – it tends to work better with old brushes. Here is another comparison; you can click on the image to enlarge it. These cars naturally took a beating inside, as do most gondolas, and in this model you can see the extensive rust. Acrylics dry quite fast fast. As you will find if you experiment, getting a uniform acrylic weathering coat over a light color takes some care. Those dry areas need to have the pigment-loaded water stroked upward to cover them. Here are some of the details to recognize in this process. This article will provide general advice about the order to apply the various layers of paint and other finishing layers that are commonly used. One way to do show all these lettering modifications on a model is just to brush-paint an irregular patch over the NEW or weight date, and prototype photos certainly support such an appearance, or you can make a careful rectangle, most easily with decal sheet of boxcar red, black, orange, or whatever car color you have. Some readers of this page will have seen the November 2014 issue of. Now that it’s wet, you can add pigment. I usually choose a more blackish mix for cars of eastern railroads, where coal soot was more prevalent, a little browner shade for cars of western railroads. He was 83. I will begin with a kitbash I did some years ago, following a Richard Hendrickson article in. One other point. But though it may look like little has been done, here is that same car at right, alongside an unweathered box car from the same source. Tank cars are a special challenge, as you really have to do the entire car in one go, and I will say more about that presently. Again, the brush is an effective tool to wick up these undesirable accumulations. This may be at door latches or hinges (on refrigerator cars), or at the attachments of grab irons. As I mentioned in Part 1 in describing the roof weathering, dry areas require caution — if you continue the process you are using on the wet areas, into a dry area, you will immediately find different behavior of the pigment. First and forem… Some readers of this page will have seen the November 2014 issue of Model Railroader magazine, with several articles on weathering. Find a proto picture and work from it. The same kind of streaking can be done on car ends, to represent the dirty water thrown up by the car wheels in wet weather. I mentioned in the second section of the “basic techniques” page, that streaking of car sides with the wash, even though less evident after the whole process is complete, can be subtly effective. Acrylic model paints for AFV, aircrafts, figues, civil, naval... different colours of acrylic model paints I just apply the wet water liberally over the area to be done. Here is the Northern Pacific box car shown in Part 2, just starting to dry at the top of the sides (there is still pigment to be dealt with at the bottom of the sides). I use a lot of Neutral Gray to tone down other colors, along with Ivory Black, and my main brown color, Burnt Umber. One point to keep in mind is that single-sheathed cars require more work, both to get wet everywhere and also to distribute pigment evenly, because every panel between posts and diagonals has to be treated as a kind of independent region. That’s because accumulations often result in a little ring of pigment when it dries, if not corrected. When the car side is very nearly dry, it will look like this next photo. is to apply the basic paint scheme first. Dilute the straight pigment a little by adding water to the palette, or minimize the amount on the brush by just stroking it onto the newspaper under the work area, and then stroke downward at either or both ends of the top track, as you see here. (They most certainly did, Another example of how effectively stock cars can be faded and weathered is shown in this photo of a Santa Fe class S. The use of pencils, as shown in these few examples, is just one of the ways to make weathering more detailed and more effective, particularly if it is kept subtle. The prototype cars did not seem to show dirt too badly, though as this photo from the late 1950s shows, eventually they got dingy. One thing to do prior to overall wash weathering is to emphasize boards in wood parts of cars. The weathering process begins by squeezing out a small amount (maybe as much as a small grape) of the black, gray and umber, onto the palette, and then mixing as seems good at the time. The techniques described here can be used individually or combined to create an endless variety of weathering patterns. This car also has a reservoir stencil to indicate brake system servicing. The car on the left is a Class A-50-14 automobile car, built in 1941, and still has its original paint scheme, with the SP initials as reporting mark. Next, start evening out the pigment with your loaded brush, so that all areas of the roof have about the same amount. This is easy to reproduce with irregular little pieces of paper, as in this example. The weathering process on your model is subject to a lot of abuse; acrylics are tough and dry to a perfect matte finish. The most common type with such paint is the refrigerator car, but the same considerations apply to any light-colored car, including tank cars. Despite what I said earlier about oil-based paints being the go-to paints for weathering models, acrylics make nice washes, and are often the best choice because the harsher thinners used to make enamel washes can damage the base layer of paint, whereas the water in acrylic … With experience you will quickly learn about how much to use, for lighter or heavier weathering. These four cases are not extensive, but I think they illustrate the general results of my weathering method. Note also the “compressed gas” warning placard on the placard board, and the scuffing to the right of the door where the paint has been scraped. Snell on freight cars, curiously, only addresses covered hoppers, presenting three methods. Acrylics are very forgiving, in that if you don’t like how an area is working out, just scrub it with clean water, the pigment will come off readily, and you can do it over. Weathering Effects. In this section, I concentrate on the problems of light-colored cars with my wash  method. This photo illustrates one strength of the acrylic wash method, that it can provide an overall “dirt” level and create a faded look. Cockpit Weathering Sets; The Weathering Magazine Publications. Many prototype photos of freight trains or freight yards reveal some refrigerator cars with ice hatches latched open. Sometimes the effect turns out too mild for what you had intended. Again, remember that the overall weathering comes later, and these perhaps exaggerated streaks will then be less evident. Model Air Paint The formula contains a new acrylic resin with properties until now impossible to obtain in a water based acrylic. In section 10 I wrap up all the features of my acrylic weathering method in an overview. Again, I tried to capture the downward streaking on the tank, as well as dirtying up the “glossy new” look of the ready-to-run model. 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